The Cradle of Western Civilisation

Having been continuously inhabited for at least the last 5,000 years, Athens is a city that needs no introductions other than this one.

We arrived just in time to see the redundantly elaborate changing of the guard.

Having read only bad things about life in Athens, it was really nice to see people getting into the Christmas spirit. In the centre of Plaza Síntagma, a constant stream of people piled up gift hampers faster than the trucks could carry them away to those less fortunate.

On Christmas Eve Eve (23rd December) we had a tasty Christmas Eve Dinner.

Of course, Athens is all about the ruins. And although we've spent a lot of time in Greece before, it is only here in Athens that we could really appreciate the achievements of the many great toga-wearing artists, architects and philosophers.

The Temple of Zeus (6th Century BC).

The Stoa of Attalos (2nd Century BC, rebuilt in the 1950's AD) which sits to the East of the Ancient Agora.

Temple of Hephaestus (415BC)

The Roman Agora

And of course, the grand daddy of them all, the Parthenon. 

The new Parthenon Museum brilliantly showed how the monument used to look. Unfortunately we had to pay an admission fee, which is disappointing as some great museums allow free entrance, for example the superb British Museum of London.

On Christmas Day we ascended Mount Lycabettus...

and wandered past some of the neo-classical buildings built soon after Greek Indpendence was won in 1822.

On Boxing Day we went up to the 2004 Olympic Site, and watched the Hobbit in 3D at a nearby cinema.

Blog Christmas Special: How Bazaar!

Last Christmas we went to several of Europe's finest christmas markets. This December we found ourselves in the former Ottoman Empire, where we experienced markets with less Santa and more silk, less gingerbread and more ginger tea, less glühwein and more industrial strength glue.

The Old Town Bazaar of Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Coppersmith's Street in Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina.

 Musical instruments on sale in Krujë, Albania.

Fireworks in Pristina, Kosovo

Strange fruit hanging in Skopje, Macedonia.

 The antique market in Athens spilled over into the street.

And of course, before the end of the year we made it to the mother of them all, Istanbul's Grand Bazaar.

It truly was a christmas miracle

Happy holidays!!!

Ye Olde Peloponnese

Incorrectly named as the "Island of Pelops" by the Ancient Greeks, the Peloponnese peninsula has actually been an island since 1893 when the Corinth Canal was built. Despite its geographic ambiguity, its a beautiful place with more history than you can fit in a box that is specifically designed to hold history.

Before arriving however, we took a quick look at the Ionian Sea for the first time since October 2011.

Upon arriving in the peninsula, we rolled through the Vouraikos gorge.

Peloponessos has been home to formidable fighters from the militant Spartans, right through to the rebellion that lead to Greek independence in 1821. When Nazi Germany took over in the Second World War, the area was a centre for a guerrilla resistance. We learned the tragic price paid for such resistance in the town of Kalavryta, where all 696 male citizens above age 12 were shot, with only 13 survivors. The women and children were locked in this school, but managed to escape.

Kastria Cave of the Lakes

From there we based ourselves in the beautiful town of Nafplio,

which is protected by Palamidi Castle.

What was once the great city of Mycenae, home to the Mycenean civilisation which dominated Greece from 1600BCE to 1100BCE.

The honeycomb tombs are very well preserved and very fun to yell "Echo" in.

The final old place was Epidaurus (or Epidavros).

People came here from all around to be cured by Asklepios and his snake.

We've seen many theatres, and this one is also theatrical. P.S. Where's Yaz?

We enjoyed the ruins, the towns and the food of the region greatly, but what we'll remember most are the stunning hills and coastline.

Meteora

In the middle of December we drove down from the cold mountains and returned to relatively warm Greece. After 12 new countries in two months, it felt a lot like coming home.

Our first destination was the doubly incredible region of Meteora. Firstly incredible for the giant sandstone rock pillars that rise above the plains. 

Secondly, incredible for the monasteries that are perched on top of said giant sandstone rock pillars. 

 

Ascetic monks began living in caves here in the 9th century and began to build monasteries not long after. There were over 20 of them by the Middle Ages but only six remain today, including these four. 

The Holy Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas 

The Holy Monastery of Varlaam 

The Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron 

To visit the holy sites, one of us had to dress a little less sluty 

In the old days, the only way to get goods and people up to the monastery was in the net. 

Some of them have upgraded to more modern techniques 

Today, there are as few as two nuns or monks per monastery, but the presence of the past residents is keenly felt. 

Some hermit caves 

The view from the town of Kalambaka 

Although it's in the middle of nowhere, Meteora is a truly unique place that is well worth a quick pilgrimage. 

A Macedonia by Any Other Name

When the Republic of Macedonia declared its independence in 1991, a naming dispute with Greece was inevitable. Greece claims that as the Ancient Macedonian Kingdom made famous by Alexander the Great was Greek, the name belongs to them. The citizens of the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, though linguistically and culturally Slavic, claim to have an important link with the Ancient Macedonians.

Perhaps to make their point, the main square of the capital, Skopje, is dominated by a statue of Alexander the Great.

Of course, they may just like statues. The whole city is crawling with bronze statues of both heroes and everyday folk.

And a few more

The capital is currently undergoing a major face lift with new museums and monuments being erected. We're undecided on whether it looks impressive or kitsch, but it is understandable that the cost of the project is quite controversial.

Skopje's old town is a pleasant break from the grand squares.

The flamboyant dress shops that are mandatory in this corner of Europe.

 Vodno Mountain

Skopje Fortress

From the capital we headed south to Europe's oldest lake, Ohrid.

Like Baikal and Tanganyika, the lake is formed by a depression in the tectonic plate and is therefore over a million years old.

The fortifications of the town of Ohrid.

 The lake has been a place of religion and ritual since forever, and today houses 365 churches.

And from there we left Eastern Europe. Of course, we don't mean Eastern like on a compass, but Eastern Europe as in, somewhere you can find lots and lots of cabbage.